Pearls By Janet Bruno-Small

Posted on 15. Jan, 2010 by Janet Bruno-Small in Mon Coeur Artist Blog

The mystery and beauty of the ocean have long enticed people to dive down into the blue to find the oyster. Man has torn them from their beds and ripped them open; looking for the grains of sand that time has coated to form a dazzling spectacle.

“Kinko lifted the flesh, and there it lay, the greatest pearl, perfect as the moon. It captured the light and refined it and gave it back in silver incandescence.”

-From The Pearl by John Steinbeck

The beauty in pearls lies in their simplicity. Men and women have been intrigued by pearls since the first was discovered in an oyster on a forgotten beach, thousands of years ago. As a child, I used to play many imaginary pirate games with my own pearls, plastic costume pearls strung as beads on a string. My brothers and sisters and I would catch our bounty of make believe nacre by standing in the cold night air of a parade route, during the Mardi Gras celebration in New Orleans. And after our swashbuckling catch, we would turn away with our prize and open our hands to reveal the same trophy that John Steinbeck spoke of. Like Kinko, we had our riches and we were wealthy.

Pearls have been worn by the best-dressed people for centuries. On your next visit to any museum, notice how often pearls are represented in antiquity. They appear in the portraits of history’s most illustrious women and well-dressed men. Of all the wonderful jewelry they owned, these people chose to be adorned in pearls for the images they wished to leave for posterity. Queen Elizabeth I of England, 1533-1603, was known as the Queen of the Pearl. She loved the pearl so dearly that the supply of natural pearls was insufficient to meet her needs, so she purchased thousands of imitation pearls to embellish her garments. It is said that when she died, she had over 2,000 pearls encrusted gown, 80 pearl decorated wigs, and chests of pearl strands, rings, earrings and pendants.

In more recent history there is that famous strand of graduated pearls, worn by Jackie Kennedy Onassis in the photograph of her and her son John. It has been said that the pearls were imitation, but that does not diminish the lovely image they portray. The picture is so well-known that since her death the necklace has been reproduced, and many copies have been sold to Jackie’s admirers.

Natural pearls have been respected and owned as early as there is recorded history, but cultured pearls are a recent development, and became available at the beginning of the 20^th century. A cultured pearl is any pearl, freshwater or saltwater, that has its organic growth stimulated and controlled by man.

Three Japanese men at the beginning of the 20^th century are responsible for the cultured pearl industry as we know it today. Through independent experimentation, two of the men –Tatsuhei Mise and Tokichi Nishikawa- are responsible for developing the spherical cultured pearl. These two men independently arrived at the same correct conclusions at almost the same time. In early 1907, Mise applied for a patent, followed in October of the same year, by Nishikawa. In 1908, the two inventors signed an agreement making pearls, pearls, and more pearls…

This is the most prevalent fashion trend today; but oh how lucky we are that this wonderful gem is once again in favor with the designers. Women have never fallen out of love with the beauty of pearls, so why should the designers? Pearls have been worn by the best dressed people for centuries – both men and women. On your next visit to any museum notice how often pearls are represented in antiquity. Of all the wonderful jewelry the people in our past owned, they chose to be adorned in pearls for the images they wished to leave for posterity. Queen Elizabeth The First of England, 1533-1603, was known as the Queen of the Pearl. It has been said that when she died, she owned over 2,000 pearls encrusted gowns, 80 pearl decorated wigs, and chests full of pearls strands, rings, earrings, and pendants. What a sight that must have been!

In more recent history there is the strand of graduated pearls, worn by Jackie Kennedy Onassis in the famous photograph taken of her and her son John. This photograph is so well known that since her death the necklace has been reproduced, and many copies have been sold to Jackie’s admirers. And trend setting Princess Diana, Princess of Wales, loved pearls so much she was often seen wearing pearl jewelry. Fashion watching women will never forget her elegant multi-strand pearl choker with the beautiful diamond buckle focal point. She wore her pearls with such grace and poise, that women of all nationalities have admired her and tried to emulate her. Even in death she influences fashion trends, as multi-strand chokers are seen by fashion observers around the world today.

In 1860 a Gossip on Dress magazine columnist wrote, “No new form of dress was ever successful but that it did not originate with the aristocracy. Starting with the ladies of court, fashion descends through all the ranks of society.” How true this statement is!

Princess Diana was not the first noble women to grace her neck with a pearl choker. Originally called a dog collar, Queen Alexandra of England, introduced this popular style at the beginning of this century. The dog collar was especially designed to hide a small scar on her throat. It became popular in her court because it was a new look and an elegant way of camouflaging neck flaws. But if you hate chokers don’t give it another thought. Pearl jewelry is being made now to drape anywhere from the middle of your neck to four inches below your clavicle bone.

The difference in the trends of 100 years ago and the trends of today, is that the pearls of the past were naturally occurring pearls – rare and costly – and available only to those with royal purses. But since 1916, when the first patent was granted to a Japanese inventor who discovered the method that is now used to create cultured pearls, pearls have become available to those even with the humblest of budgets.

The popularity of cultured freshwater and saltwater pearls is undeniable. So resurrect your pearls from your jewelry boxes or take them out of the safety deposit boxes, and wear them.  Wear them as they are, or revamp them with antique focal points.

Wearing pearl jewelry is an elegant way to update your look. Today’s trend includes a lasting love for the more traditional light category pearl, such as the white, cream and pink. For those of you who already own the traditional colors and want to add to your collection, the most alluring category of pearls is the dark, such as the black, bronze, green and dark gray. Designers have even been observed using the colored category of pearls, such as the light to medium tones of yellow and gray. How wonderful these colors fit-in with today’s fashion color palette.