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The Beader and the Battleship

Janet Bruno-Small — Tue, 14 Sep 2010 19:45:56 +0000

“Hello? Can you hear me? Janet?” The caller was shouting and sounded a little uncertain. “Yes,” I responded, “I can hear you clearly.” “My name is Kim. I’m calling from the belly of the Battleship NORTH CAROLINA.” She said.

This has got to be a gag. I thought. Who would be calling me from the belly of a Battleship!

“I wasn’t sure the reception would be clear down here,” she confirmed. “We are in the middle of major restoration throughout the ship. There’s a lot of noise! Janet. I’m the museum services director for the NORTH CAROLINA. I hire experts to reconstruct various projects. That’s why I am calling you.” I put down the delicate beadwork project I was working on and held the phone a little closer to my ear. What in the world could a jewelry designer and restorer like me do in the restoration of a Battleship?

“The battleship has a sterling silver punch bowl that needs help,” Kim said. “Silver punch bowl?” I repeated. “Yes, this punch bowl has six candelabras attached to it and each has a shade with beaded fringe.” Is this the kind of thing you do?” She asked. Finally I understood enough to ask intelligent questions.

“Kim, do you have any pictures?” I asked. “You’re going to have to send one to me.. It’s so hard for me to visualize what you are talking about.” “Let’s start by exchanging e-mail addresses,” She suggested.

Every day brings new learning experiences and that day opened a new world to me: Naval history. The punch bowl turned out to be truly magnificent. It was the centerpiece of a sterling silver service that consisted of 121 pieces. It was given to the Department of Navy and Armored Cruiser NORTH CAROLINA on July 4, 1908 by the citizens of North Carolina and the legislature in a ceremony on the open sea. This gift demonstrated their appreciation to the Navy for the honor of naming “the fastest ship in its service” after their commonwealth.

Chief Yeoman Rarrot who was stationed on the NORTH CAROLINA describes the silver service: “The decoration of the pieces is an artistic combination of reminders of the state and the sea; Representations of seaweeds, shells and dolphins are to be found around the base of the bowl, tea set and pitcher, while the trays have roped borders (with tobacco and cotton plants) with the American eagle on each side and the coats of arms of the State and of the Navy.”

The history of the Cruiser is filled with many heroic feats: In 1909, she participated in a inspection tour of the construction of the Panama Canal, her first assignment. Later, she cruised the Mediterranean to protect Americans threatened by the Turkish Empire and provided a medical relief party to treat surviving Armenian massacre victims. Prior to World War I, she brought home the bodies of the dead crew of the MAINE.

During World War I, she protected Americans in the Near East. On November 5, 1915, the NORTH CAROLINA launched the first plane while underway. The scout observation biplane piloted by LCDR Henry Mustin and crew was successfully catapulted from a rope mounted on her deck paving the way for the use of aircraft on battleships and cruisers.

Throughout all these great adventures, the silver service accompanied the ship. In June of 1920, the silver service was removed from the Cruiser and stored in a Naval warehouse until December of 1923. At the urgent request of the Daughters of the American Revolution of North Carolina, the Secretary of the Navy loaned the service to the State of North Carolina, with the stipulation that it be returned upon demand. The service resided in the North Carolina Governor’s mansion and was used for entertaining at special state events. Its presence in the mansion was much admired until the Navy demanded its return in September of 1928. Reluctantly, the Governor and the DAR released it and returned it to the Navy. Dearly missed by the North Carolinians, the petitioning for its return began immediately.

The Cruiser RALEIGH was the silver services’ next destination. It was used “as a symbol of Uncle Sam’s hospitality to foreign officials on its world tours.” However it did not remain long on the RALEIGH.

In 1930, an Act of Congress was passed and signed by President Hoover. It authorized the silver service returned to he people of North Carolina; so back home to the Governor’s Mansion it went.

The citizens of North Carolina purchased the Battleship NORTH CAROLINA in 1960 when the Navy announced their intentions to scrap it. She was opened to the public as a museum in October 1961. Today, this authentically restored World War II Battleship is a National Historic Landmark and serves as the World War II memorial honoring the 10,000 North Carolinians who gave their lives serving their country. NORTH CAROLINA shares this amazing sterling silver service with the Governor’s mansion.

A Restoration Job Underway

When I first saw the work ahead of me, all I could do was take a deep breath. This treasure needed help in the worst way. All those years of travel, bouncing around aboard the Battleship and being exposed to curious hands, cigar and cigarette smoke, dust, grime, moisture, and sea salt had taken quite a toll on the delicate thread and glass beads. The constant rubbing against the sharp edges of the mica lining had broken some of the threads, and many of the beads had been lost, but to the credit of caretakers, many of the original beads were saved, and the linen shades were intact and worthy of restoration.

I began by deciding what to do about the missing beads. I asked myself many questions: Should I try to match the old beads exactly? This was very unlikely because the age of the beads would make new ones difficult to find. Should I shorten the length of the fringe on all the shades? To do this I would have to pool all of the beads and create enough to supplement for the missing ones. But this would make all of the fringes shorter and alter the original look and character of the piece as a whole. I decided to try to avoid this at all costs. A total of 103 fringes were missing – a substantial number. Each shade originally held 77 fringes that were three inches long. To make it look as it once did was the best plan to attack.

My next strategy was to locate beads that were as close in color and shape as I could find. I knew this would be difficult.

In the conservation community, there is an ongoing debate. When restoring or conserving an article, do you make the work undetectable or noticeable? And is it permissible to destroy other articles of antiquity in order to make another as accurate as possible? In this case, I had little choice because of the difficulty of locating the exact matching beads. I have found that when restoring beadwork articles, it is extremely difficult to find the exact bead size and bead color. An undetectable restoration would be difficult if not impossible.

Luckily a late 19^th Century crocheted purse solved my problem. I am not in favor of destroying one article to save another, but this little purse was a casualty of time and its true value was in assisting to resurrect the Battleship shades. When I originally compared the beads, I found them to be close match. However, after I removed the bead fringe from all of the shades and cleaned them, I discovered that years of being exposed to the elements – salt, smoke, and dirt, had disguised their true color. Still, it was the closest match I could hope for. By pooling all of the beads together, I could end up with enough to make all of the fringes the length they had been originally.

My next decision was the thread type and color. The original thread was a yellow cotton twist, which I knew I could not be able to find. This was just as well, because advances in technology would give me a much better thread today anyway. I chose nylon thread that was very close in color to the beads. Nylon thread is strong and does not stretch. I knew it would give the fringes years of new life.

When I began the beading process, I discovered that the linen shades were in good condition but the yellow hem tape that had been sewn around the edge would have to be reinforced. The years of use and the elements of dirt, salt, and moisture – had taken their toll on the hem tape too. It was weak, and small holes had become visible. The thread would eventually wear through, causing the restoration to fail. I solved the problem by stitching a thin strip of cotton netting to the back of the tape. The netting would assist in keeping the knots in place, keep holes from forming and support the weight of the bead fringe.

With the technical difficulties behind me, I began to bead. I knew I had a lot of work ahead of me, but with a tight schedule I should be able to finish in two months. Then, a totally unexpected situation occurred: My body rebelled! I did not take into consideration the stress the repetitive movement would have on my hands, shoulders, and arms. The words of another bead worker suddenly drifted into my head: “Be careful of working long periods of time in the same position.” I revamped my schedule, added breaks, and adjusted my work area. This advice is good for anyone attempting a major project and I heartily pass it on here.

I completed the shades in 130 intense hours of work. But in those hours, I developed a relationship that turned into a love affair with the silver service from the Battleship NORTH CAROLINA. I allowed my imagination to drift as I worked, and soon I could visualize the pomp and the ceremonies that the service must have witnessed. There were probably many days of danger too, when the service was stowed out of harm’s way. What stories it could tell if it could talk.

Today, the shades are safely back where they belong aboard the NORTH CAROLINA, symbolizing a time of grandeur and pride on the sea.

Jade

Janet Bruno-Small — Tue, 14 Sep 2010 15:45:35 +0000

By Janet Bruno-Small and Larry Small

An ancient Chinese fable tells the story of Chan Lo, a stone carver who carved his stones according to what the stone told him it wanted to be. Eventually, the Great Emperor of China heard of Chan’s accomplishments and commanded him to carve a dragon of wind and fire from a piece of perfect jade. But when Chan listened to the stone, the stone told him it wanted to be a carving of three carp fish. Chan carved according to what he heard from the stone and not what the Great Emperor told him to do. This made the Great Emperor very angry and he promised to punish Chan Lo.

The appeal of jade to Chan, as a stone carver, no doubt rested in its compact structure. Jade is a mass of tightly interlocking crystals composed entirely of the grains of one mineral. A piece of jade is nearly impossible to split. Jade rocks of boulder size are found in nature mainly because jade is so resistant to water erosion. The very fact that jade possesses such a tough structure of interlocking grains allows the artist to carve intricate details with little risk of fracture. And, since jade is hard as well as tough – an almost unique combination – jade can be polished until the surface is very smooth. Chan Lo probably carved his carp fish with tools made of bronze or iron, and his sculpture would have been primitive indeed when compared to those made in more recent times. With the development of power tools and the use of diamond dust in the 19^th century, jade carvers began to achieve the delicate effects and sophisticated designs that we now adore and cherish. Modern pieces of jade can usually be distinguished from the older ones by their greater polish and a tendency to be less stiff and thrifty when it comes to materials and perhaps a little freer in concept.

The word “jade” usually refers to two different and unrelated minerals: jadeite, a sodium aluminum silicate, and nephrite, a calcium magnesium iron silicate. Both of these minerals have a compact texture and hardness.

The buyer of objects made from jadeite should be cautious of the practice by some malefactors who attempt to defraud by dyeing almost colorless jadeite to simulate stones of finer quality. When other stones, hard minerals, or glass are altered to look like jade, the results can be detected by simple tests. Serpentine and agalmatolite (which are somewhat like soap stone) are easily distinguished from jade by comparing their softness. Larger pieces are often made of serpentine as well, and should be tested in the same way. Also, a good loupe or magnifying glass will reveal the character of the polished surface. True jade will have a felted texture which is caused by the varying light reflected from each grain’s harder and softer directions. And the critical eye can distinguish the slight unevenness of polished jade from the smooth surface of glass, which may also have bubbles.

Most people expect both jadeite and nephrite to be green, but this is not always the case. The color actually varies through a broad spectrum. Jadeite, the finer quality of jade, is green, and found only in small pieces, but the shades of green here can vary too. Your favorite jadeite necklace may be anything from pale green to spotted green, or maybe even an opaque uniformly translucent green, or if you are lucky, it may even resemble an emerald. The finest quality of jadeite frequently occurs in very thin seams; this is the kind often seen as carvings. Many Chinese figurines are adorned with thin slices of this jade. Jadeite is what we have come to recognize in the jewelry we love to wear.

Jadeite is found mostly in Burma, where stream beds and hillsides may yield boulders imbedded with this rare substance. Many beds, plaques and other carved objects have been found in Mexico, but there are no known sources of jadeite there today. Theorists suggest that the objects found in Mexico were brought by the earliest ancestors of the Mayans and Aztecs. However, this does not explain why most Burmese jade is much greener than Mexican, and has a distinct difference in translucency. Perhaps there are large deposits of the green beauty waiting to be discovered just south of our border.
And now to the terrible ending of our Chinese fable: Chan Lo must have known he was in for it when he carved the wrong object from the stone of jade. He must have bowed his head as low as possible before hearing what his punishment was to be. But to his surprise the Great Emperor was a wise man. “I know now that you carved the correct image from the stone.” He said, “I know because I listened to the stone in my garden last night, and I too heard the sounds of the fish. You are to be rewarded Chan Lo. What would you like as your reward?”

Chan Lo thought for a long moment before he answered. “I wish to carve the objects as they tell me,” he said, “for only the objects know best what they are to be.”

“Very well,” said the Emperor. “Go and carve beautiful things.”

If only Chan Lo were here today to listen to the stones and tell us what they are saying. Perhaps they would tell us of things we have only dreamed.

The ancient Chinese fable is from the story, The Jade Stone, by Caryn Yacowitz and is available at the Slidell Library.

A New Life for old Cameos

Janet Bruno-Small — Mon, 13 Sep 2010 21:19:31 +0000

These Lovely Antique Treasures Make Beautiful Contemporary Jewelry

Do you have a cameo resting in the bottom of your jewelry box? One that you can’t wear because its clasp is broken or the edge is chipped? It’s time to resurrect it. I have always admired these lovely miniature works of art; they are the essence of collectable jewelry. When I began my antique jewelry career, cameos captivated me and I always took notes when I located material on them.

It seems that the fashion for cameos was reborn with Napoleon Classicism. In 1796 Napoleon launched the Italian campaign and along with his victory came many antique Roman and Greek cameos as spoils of war. So fascinated with the beauty of the cameo, Napoleon had several mounted for his personal use, and supported the foundation of a school of gem engraving.

Cameo jewelry was born with the Italians; they excelled in the art of carving cameos, and their influence is still present today. Cameo themes are generally depictions of classical mythology and it is not unusual to find Goddess Diane the Huntress, Zeus, or Medusa adorning a brooch, necklace, or ring. Cameos are carved from lava of Vesuvius, black onyx, banded agate, coral, shell and hard stone.

Throughout the centuries cameos have held a special place in jewelry styles, and today, at the coming turn of the century, they still hold a fascination for us.

A cameo brooch can be turned into a festoon-draped necklace without compromising its value by cutting or destroying its setting. No one likes to see antique jewelry defaced or otherwise ruined by altering its original intent. My goal is to use bead working techniques to construct the design.

TIPS:

When measuring your neck use a flexible measuring tape that is in good condition. Drape tape around neck to desired length. Measuring neck size for a choker is a little different. Place forefinger inside tape so it will add a bit to length; measure for top row only.

The clasp you select is important, not only for aesthetic reasons but also for design purposes. The distance between each strand will determine the size of beads that can be used and how necklace will drape. If strands are close, drape will be tight and strands may wrap around each other. Be careful to select a clasp that will allow you to create the desired effect.

When selecting the pearls, always look for the ones with highest luster. The best pearl will seem vibrant to the eye, and the light reflected from them will be sharp and bright forming a little ball of light that shines brightly. Do not choose pearls that are dull and the reflection hazy, chalky, or nonexistent.

Many people have trouble working with a pearl gauge. If this is your first time, remember to hold the pearl gauge in the right hand and place pearl in the gauge with your left. Place the forefinger of your right hand on top of the gauge, to keep it from inadvertently being pushed to a larger size when inserting the pearls. Keeping pearls the same size is very important.

INSTRUCTIONS

1. After determining length of necklace, place clasp on design board: 1 side of clasp at beginning and the other side of clasp at end. Clasp placement should not increase length of necklace. Place cameo on design board at exact center of overall necklace length. For example, if necklace is 12” the cameo would be placed in the center with 6” on either side.

2. Using 2 sliding pearls gauges (1 for 2mm pearls and other for 4.5mm pearls), measure pearls for rows 1 and 3. Using 2 gauges will save time, as it is not necessary to keep changing the gauge. Select 1^st 2mm pearl. Find 3 others that are the same size. As you select them, line them up on design board next to cameo, working your way out from middle on both sides. I like to work from the center where the cameo rests, toward ends, because larger pearls will be in front. Select 1^st 4.5mm pearl and find 3 others that are the same size. Place them on design board next to 2mm pearls. Select next set of 2mm pearls and place them next to bigger pearl. Add gold steel seed bead. This makes up a complete set. Continue this process until you reach clasp for row 1, ending with a 4.5mm pearl. For row 3,measure out 4 more sets (a set consists of 2mm, 4.5mm, 2mm, and seed bead) dropping last 2mm pearl and seed bead and ending with 4.5 pearl. Finally add 1,2mm pearl to front/center/next to cameo of row 3. When working with multiple strands it is important to have pearls on same vertical rows to match in size. If you cannot find 4 pearls that match exactly, choose 4 that match but are slightly smaller.

3. Measure pearls for row 2. Using sliding pearl gauges, 1 for 5mm pearls and the other for 4.5mm pearls. Select 1^st 4.5mm pearl. Find 3 others that are the exact size. Place them as they are selected on design board next to cameo on both sides. Select 1^st 5mm pearl and find 3 others that are the exact size. Continue until you have reached clasp on row 1. Measure out 2 more sets or a total of 4 more pearls.

4. To ensure pearl holes are large enough to hold cord, check each pearl by placing hand drill inside hole. If hole is not large enough to accommodate drill you must re-drill the hole. The best method is to use a small piece of leather or a rubber needle gripper to hold pearls. Safety is very important. The tiny bits are very sharp and a small slip can cause a puncture wound and a lot of pain.

5. Single thread 6 needles. Double knot end on top of 1^st knot then seal with clear nail polish or Duro Super Glue of Gel. Thread length is 3 times length of the half row. Make sure glue is completely dried before proceeding; otherwise it will hinder later steps.

6. Begin stringing pearls. 1^st, add bead tip. String bead tip by going into cup and coming out the back. The knot should sit securely in cup. If it looks as if the knot might slip out, knot again on top of the 1^st double knot and glue for strength. Continue after glue is completely dried.

7. Start with row 1 and complete both sides before proceeding to other rows. On single thread, string pearls and seed beads sequentially beginning from the end and working your way to center. Upon reaching center or last pearl add 30 seed beads or enough opening and frame in cameo. Seed beads need to be small enough to fit through this space. Loop should be long enough to allow a small distance between frame and beginning of pearl strand. You do not want your pearls to rub against the cameo as this will affect the draping. Run needle and single thread back up 1^st pearl, continuing up 3 more beads. Stop here; repeat this process on other side of the row. Temporarily attach both bead tips to 1^st strand’s jump rings on both sides of clasp. Close it around jump ring with needle-nose pliers and tighten it with chain-nose pliers. Try necklace on to make sure it hangs at the right spot on your neck or chest. If it is too short add a bead or beads to front and vice versa if too long. Remember to do exactly what you did to this row, to row 3 and change row 2 accordingly. When deciding where to attach 1^st strand, it is best to choose a spot above cameo’s horizontal center line, and close to top. This will insure that cameo does not tip over when you are wearing it.

8. Now that you are happy with row 1, string both sides of row 2. Follow step 7. When finished, measure again to make certain that distance between draping is to your liking. If it is go on to step 9; if it is too short, add a bead or beads to front and vice versa if too long. Repeat step 7 with row 3 and measure again upon completion.

9. Starting with row 1, complete both sides before proceeding to other rows. Tension is an important factor. If you pull the thread too tight when traveling up pearls, the necklace will drape kinky and stiff. As you weave your way back up be mindful of this and your necklace will drape beautifully. Before you begin this step, detach working row bead tip from clasp. Continue carefully running needle and thread back up strand of pearls, going all the way through bead tip into bead cup. Take care not to pierce existing knot when going into bead cup. This will weaken it. Knot again using a slip knot, cut excess thread, glue and close cup with chain-nose pliers.

10. Remember when I cautioned about making sure the glued knot was dried before placing in the bead cup? Now you will see why. You need to be able to go into bead cup here and knot off. If you can’t get into cup you will have to restring this strand of the necklace because it will not be secure. The last thing you want is your necklace to break when you are wearing it to an elegant affair. Repeat this step until you have strung and knotted off entire necklace.

The Glitter of Gold

Janet Bruno-Small — Mon, 08 Feb 2010 19:54:54 +0000

By Janet Bruno-Small and Larry Small

Chocolate Pearl and 14K yellow gold Earrings

Through the millennium gold has been used by most culture as a means of expression. Rulers have used it to display their wealth, or to appease the gods and the goddesses as a token to enter the afterlife in good stead. Explorers have ventured into the unknown parts of the world to discover and to pillage the cities made of gold. It has been used to symbolize love and to adorn the things we love. It has been fashioned into objects of desire and it has been used to enhance beauty and give sex appeal. What makes gold such a precious and coveted metal?

Gold is a mineral that appears naturally in many parts of the world in underground deposits called veins or lodes. It also appears in riverbeds and streams after pressure in the earth forces veins of gold to the surface, exposing it to the natural elements. Erosion gradually removes the surrounding rocks, freeing the gold. The heavy metal settles to the bottom of riverbeds and streams, forming placer deposits, and remains until that lucky person stumbles on it. Ancient man discovered it in this form. It was crafted by the ancients into ornaments and jewelry as early as the Third millennium B.C. Some of us had the pleasure to view the great exhibit of the burial pieces recovered from the tomb of Tutankhamen (1340 B.C.). This grand tour exposed thousands of American art lovers to the majestic gold work of these Egyptian goldsmiths. Ancient Egypt was not alone in creating and covering gold decorative objects and jewelry. Magnificent gold objects have been found in burial sites of ancient cultures around the world: Phoenicia, Asia Minor, Greece, Rome, Persia, Asia, Africa, and the Americas.

Much later in history in the 1530s, the ruthless Spaniard Pizarro brought Black Death, pestilence, and conquistadors to the New World destroying the Inca Empire. The reward was great for these conquistadors. The Inca ruler was captured and Pizarro ransomed the mighty Atahualpa for one room of gold and two rooms of silver – a total ransom worth $50 million dollars.

This was only the beginning for the conquistadors, for they uncovered such wealth that there was nothing in Europe to compare to the magnificence. Looting operations grew so large that ancient Peruvian monuments were divided into claim areas and titles registered. Tons of skillfully crafted objects were smelted and transformed into ingots and shipped to Spain. The House of the Sun was one of those ruins sacked and looted. Doors of wrought gold were lost. The magnificent golden garden with its artificially sown gold corn, stalks and leaves were destroyed and there too, 20 golden llamas with their gold offspring and the watchful gold shepherds with their golden slings and crooks were melted for none to see again. All were destroyed and are now known of only because of the reflections of one conquistador Cieza de Leon in the Chronicle of Peru.

Century, gold discoveries abounded, with the California gold rush leading the pack in 1848, followed by Australians finds in 1851. However, the grandest gold find in history was in 1886 in Witwatersrand Reef in South Africa. These discoveries cumulatively increased the supply of gold, which gave life to a booming jewelry industry. Finally, gold jewelry was available to those with the humblest of budgets. Today the leading producers of gold are South Africa, Russia, Canada, the United States, and Australia.

Gold is not the rarest of minerals. However, a public perception of rarity is an attribute of this popular metal. It is a metal that the public respects because of the admirable history that surrounds it. It is after all one of the earliest forms of currency. And today, as it has been for hundreds of years, it is accepted as a medium of exchange. Gold is the shining star of money.

Most of us desire to own gold and for the majority of us this desire is fulfilled by owning a piece of gold in the form of jewelry. Purchasing something that may turn into a family heirloom can be a delightful experience when you understand what you are looking at, and know the basic terminology used when discussing your selection. When purchasing gold jewelry in different parts of the world the buyer will find some very different terms. In the U.S., it’s sold by the karat and in Europe by its fineness. Karat is a measure of gold purity. Outside the U.S. particularly in British Commonwealth countries is spelled “carat.” (“Carat” is also used in the United States as a weight measurement for gemstones.) Fineness is the amount of gold used in relation to 1,000 parts. For example, pure or 100% gold in the U.S. is 24 karats but in European terms it is expressed as having a fineness of .999. Pure gold or fine gold does not make wearable jewelry because it is extremely soft and easily damaged. Therefore goldsmiths rarely create 24K gold jewelry. To gain greater durability, hardness, and to decrease its cost, pure gold is alloyed or mixed with various precious metals. The most popular gold alloys are 18K and 14K gold, with 18K being the international standard for higher-quality jewelry.

14k Gold Chinese Blessings Ring

To create the more valuable 18K gold or .750 fine 75% pure gold is alloyed with 25% of other metals. Similarly, 14K or .583 fine is created by alloying 58.3% pure gold with 41.67% of other metals. Gold alloys of less than 10 karats are not stamped and cannot be legally sold as karat gold in the United States. However, in Spain, Britain and Canada karat gold is acceptable down to 9K and in Germany down to 8K. In Italy and France gold content must be at least 18K to be called gold.

Another benefit of the alloying process is the creation of beautiful colored gold. Today we see gold in white, red, pink, green, blue, purple, and several shades of yellow. To create white gold, pure gold is alloyed with palladium, platinum, or nickel. A green shade of gold is made by adding various amounts of cadmium, silver, or zinc. Bright yellow gold is created by adding different amounts of fine silver and copper. By adding a large amount of copper to the alloyed yellow gold a reddish pink gold is formed.

Gold jewelry, at times, is sold by its weight expressed by the pennyweight (dwt) or gram (g). In America, jewelers commonly use the pennyweight as their choice. The gram, however, is the most internationally used unit of weight for gold jewelry. The difference in their weight conversions is 1 pennyweight equals 1.555 g or 1 gram equals .643 dwt. When comparison shopping gold jewelry by weight, be certain the same unit of weight is being used. If it is different, remember to convert it so a true comparison can be made.

14k Yellow Gold Vintage Garnet Ring

What better way to mark the passing of time than with a beautiful piece of gold jewelry that you selected with care and knowledge. As we count the days to the end of this millennium, let us be reminded how cherished this precious metal has been since the beginning of mankind.

“And a river went out of Eden to water the garden; and from thence it was parted, and became into four heads. The name of the first is Pi-son: that is it which compasseth the whole land of Hav-i-lah, where there is gold; And the gold of that land is good.” Genesis 2:10-12

Pearls By Janet Bruno-Small

Janet Bruno-Small — Fri, 15 Jan 2010 20:43:12 +0000

The mystery and beauty of the ocean have long enticed people to dive down into the blue to find the oyster. Man has torn them from their beds and ripped them open; looking for the grains of sand that time has coated to form a dazzling spectacle.

“Kinko lifted the flesh, and there it lay, the greatest pearl, perfect as the moon. It captured the light and refined it and gave it back in silver incandescence.”

-From The Pearl by John Steinbeck

The beauty in pearls lies in their simplicity. Men and women have been intrigued by pearls since the first was discovered in an oyster on a forgotten beach, thousands of years ago. As a child, I used to play many imaginary pirate games with my own pearls, plastic costume pearls strung as beads on a string. My brothers and sisters and I would catch our bounty of make believe nacre by standing in the cold night air of a parade route, during the Mardi Gras celebration in New Orleans. And after our swashbuckling catch, we would turn away with our prize and open our hands to reveal the same trophy that John Steinbeck spoke of. Like Kinko, we had our riches and we were wealthy.

Pearls have been worn by the best-dressed people for centuries. On your next visit to any museum, notice how often pearls are represented in antiquity. They appear in the portraits of history’s most illustrious women and well-dressed men. Of all the wonderful jewelry they owned, these people chose to be adorned in pearls for the images they wished to leave for posterity. Queen Elizabeth I of England, 1533-1603, was known as the Queen of the Pearl. She loved the pearl so dearly that the supply of natural pearls was insufficient to meet her needs, so she purchased thousands of imitation pearls to embellish her garments. It is said that when she died, she had over 2,000 pearls encrusted gown, 80 pearl decorated wigs, and chests of pearl strands, rings, earrings and pendants.

In more recent history there is that famous strand of graduated pearls, worn by Jackie Kennedy Onassis in the photograph of her and her son John. It has been said that the pearls were imitation, but that does not diminish the lovely image they portray. The picture is so well-known that since her death the necklace has been reproduced, and many copies have been sold to Jackie’s admirers.

Natural pearls have been respected and owned as early as there is recorded history, but cultured pearls are a recent development, and became available at the beginning of the 20^th century. A cultured pearl is any pearl, freshwater or saltwater, that has its organic growth stimulated and controlled by man.

Three Japanese men at the beginning of the 20^th century are responsible for the cultured pearl industry as we know it today. Through independent experimentation, two of the men –Tatsuhei Mise and Tokichi Nishikawa- are responsible for developing the spherical cultured pearl. These two men independently arrived at the same correct conclusions at almost the same time. In early 1907, Mise applied for a patent, followed in October of the same year, by Nishikawa. In 1908, the two inventors signed an agreement making pearls, pearls, and more pearls…

This is the most prevalent fashion trend today; but oh how lucky we are that this wonderful gem is once again in favor with the designers. Women have never fallen out of love with the beauty of pearls, so why should the designers? Pearls have been worn by the best dressed people for centuries – both men and women. On your next visit to any museum notice how often pearls are represented in antiquity. Of all the wonderful jewelry the people in our past owned, they chose to be adorned in pearls for the images they wished to leave for posterity. Queen Elizabeth The First of England, 1533-1603, was known as the Queen of the Pearl. It has been said that when she died, she owned over 2,000 pearls encrusted gowns, 80 pearl decorated wigs, and chests full of pearls strands, rings, earrings, and pendants. What a sight that must have been!

In more recent history there is the strand of graduated pearls, worn by Jackie Kennedy Onassis in the famous photograph taken of her and her son John. This photograph is so well known that since her death the necklace has been reproduced, and many copies have been sold to Jackie’s admirers. And trend setting Princess Diana, Princess of Wales, loved pearls so much she was often seen wearing pearl jewelry. Fashion watching women will never forget her elegant multi-strand pearl choker with the beautiful diamond buckle focal point. She wore her pearls with such grace and poise, that women of all nationalities have admired her and tried to emulate her. Even in death she influences fashion trends, as multi-strand chokers are seen by fashion observers around the world today.

In 1860 a Gossip on Dress magazine columnist wrote, “No new form of dress was ever successful but that it did not originate with the aristocracy. Starting with the ladies of court, fashion descends through all the ranks of society.” How true this statement is!

Princess Diana was not the first noble women to grace her neck with a pearl choker. Originally called a dog collar, Queen Alexandra of England, introduced this popular style at the beginning of this century. The dog collar was especially designed to hide a small scar on her throat. It became popular in her court because it was a new look and an elegant way of camouflaging neck flaws. But if you hate chokers don’t give it another thought. Pearl jewelry is being made now to drape anywhere from the middle of your neck to four inches below your clavicle bone.

The difference in the trends of 100 years ago and the trends of today, is that the pearls of the past were naturally occurring pearls – rare and costly – and available only to those with royal purses. But since 1916, when the first patent was granted to a Japanese inventor who discovered the method that is now used to create cultured pearls, pearls have become available to those even with the humblest of budgets.

The popularity of cultured freshwater and saltwater pearls is undeniable. So resurrect your pearls from your jewelry boxes or take them out of the safety deposit boxes, and wear them. Wear them as they are, or revamp them with antique focal points.

Wearing pearl jewelry is an elegant way to update your look. Today’s trend includes a lasting love for the more traditional light category pearl, such as the white, cream and pink. For those of you who already own the traditional colors and want to add to your collection, the most alluring category of pearls is the dark, such as the black, bronze, green and dark gray. Designers have even been observed using the colored category of pearls, such as the light to medium tones of yellow and gray. How wonderful these colors fit-in with today’s fashion color palette.

Chocolate Rope Necklace

Birthstones The secret powers of our most precious stones By Janet Bruno-Small and Larry Small

Janet Bruno-Small — Wed, 13 Jan 2010 23:32:22 +0000

Thirteenth-century Venetian gem dealer, Marco Polo traveled east in search of gems. In the Mongolian empire he entertained the fierce Kubla Khan with his travel stories and in payment was given turquoise, jade, Burmese rubies, and Ceylon sapphires. There he encountered the first paper currency. Amazed that anyone would trade irreplaceable gems for rice paper, Marco continued to barter his gold for gems, and his gems for rarer gems.
Gems through the millenniums have enjoyed an intrinsic value because of their universal acceptance as a medium of exchange.
Their natural beauty and perceived indestructibility surrounds their history with a mystique that is unrivaled by any commodity today. Wrapped up in the history and lore of gems is the use of gems as symbols. The history that interests us at this time is the association of gems and one’s birthday. How many times have you heard this question, “What is my birthstone? I was born in this month.” The appropriate answer is given and you wonder when and where did this selection of stones originate.
It is possible that the belief in birthstones was influenced by the Bible. In the story of Aaron (Exod. 28:17-21), the first high priest of the Israelites, his breastplate was meticulously described. It was decorated with four even rows of three gem stones each; each stone representing one of the 12 tribes of Israel. The list of these 12 stones differs depending on the translation. But in the King James’s version, the list is sardius, topaz, carbuncle, emerald, sapphire, diamond, ligure, agate, amethyst, beryl, onyx and jasper.
The number “12” through the ages has had great significance. In the New Testament (Rev. 21:12-21), the “New Jerusalem” had 12 gates that were 12 pearls. And the 12 foundations of the wall of the city were garnished with 12 types of precious stones: jasper, sapphire, chalcedony, emerald, sardonqx, sardius, chrysolite, beryl, topaz, chrysoprasus, jacinth, and amethyst. There were 12 apostles, 12 signs in the zodiac, and 12 months in the year.
However, not until much later, in the 18th century, does the belief and use of the birthstone appear. The list of precious stones in the Bible stories do not exactly match that of the birthstone list but for some there are similarities. In addition, in Poland in the 1700s it was considered wise to wear the stone which was associated with your zodiac because its talisman properties were sent to protect from evil spirits.
The list of birthstones and zodiacal stones varied through the centuries. Finally, in 1912 the American Gem Society and the American National Retailers Association came up with their own list. Here it is:
January:
The garnet an ancient gem known thousands of years before the birth of Christ, represent January and Aquarius. In those early times, it was known as a carbuncle and believed to possess great healing powers, especially against fevers.
February:
Mythologically connected with Bacchus, the Greek god of wine, the amethyst represents February and Pisces. It’s reputed that if fashioned into a cup the amethyst will prevent the wine drinker from drunkenness.
March:
Aquamarine or blood stone represents March and Aries. Aquamarine is one of the most highly prized beryls and blood stone imbues the wearer with courage.
April:
The most famous of gems, the diamond represents April and Taurus. Diamond mines were believed to be in operation as early as the fourth century B.C.
But not until the 15th century did they gain in popularity, and they did so because of Louis de Berquem, a Jewish diamond cutter from Belgium. He developed a system of faceting that accentuated the brilliance of the stone.
May:
The rarest and most valuable of all gemstones, the emerald represents May and Gemini. It was dedicated to Aphrodite and Venus, the goddesses of love. Cleopatra mined emeralds as early as 2000 B.C.
June:
Blessed with wonderful choices pearl, moonstone or alexandrite, the person born in June and under the sign of Cancer is fortunate. Pearls have been cherished from the earliest times, adorning men and women alike.
In ancient times, the moonstone was used to arouse tender passion in lovers and give them the power to tell the future. A recent discovery, alexandrite was named after Czar Alexander II when discovered in Russia on his birthday.
July:
Ruby, the Lord of gems, represents July and Leo. It is believed to exert powerful forces guarding a home or field against storms.
August:
Gem of the sun whose rays give life, peridot represents August and Virgo. This stone promotes married happiness.
September:
Believed to attract divine favor to their owners, sapphire represents September and Libra. The gem of the soul, used often in church regalia, it promotes clear thinking.
October:
Opal known as the “child beautiful as love” by the Romans represents October or Scorpio. It is revered as the symbol of hope and purity. Tourmaline is also worn as this birthstone.
November:
The most misused name of all the gems, topaz represents November and Sagittarius. This gem endows the wearer with faithfulness.
December:
Turquoise, the most important of the opaque gemstones, represents December and Capricorn. A symbol of wealth, four bracelets made of turquoise and cast gold are the oldest pieces of wrought jewelry known in the world. Zircon alternates as the birthstone of this month.
History tells us that Marco Polo was born in 1254 and died in 1324; other than this, it does not give the exact date of his birth, so we do not know what his birthstone would have been.
However, we know he was immensely curious, as keen observer, resourceful, and able to endure much hardship. It sounds very much like Marco may have been a Gemini, and would have benefited from the emerald, which is thought to bring riches and fame and when the wearer places it under his tongue, endows him with the gift of prophecy. Marco, you devil you; so that is how you did it!

Louisiana - A Community for Artists and Art Lovers

Janet Bruno-Small — Tue, 02 Jun 2009 22:51:06 +0000

Louisiana has a large community of artists and art lovers. This fact is an important reason for Louisianans to support the ARTS in our communities. We are known world wide for our beloved French Quarter with its architectural beauty, and the eclectic population it houses and draws: artists, musicians, writers, poets, dancers, art conservators, museum curators, actors, etc. and all those that appreciate these talents. Now if we look into all the communities that make up Louisiana we would find many such areas that foster the ARTS. The ARTS community helps the individual in good times and bad times. After the devastation of Katrina, we used “Art Therapy” immediately to assist our evacuated children to express their trauma they experienced in the storm. An art exhibit of these expressions was on display for many to view at the New Orleans Museum of Art. Art challenges the individual to strive for self expression and Challenges the viewers to respond.

Throughout history when the ARTS community was denied just respect and financial support of the governing class, it pointed to the gradual demise of personal freedoms for all. Let’s just say the ARTS is a luxury, how would you feel if music and art were stripped from your lives? A visit to an art gallery or museum was removed from options you and your family could choose. If the Opera, Ballet, or Symphony companies were disbanded because of lack of operating funds, would we be a better society? Music such as Jazz, Cajun, Blues, etc. were not taught in our communities or heard in public arenas, would we be better off as a society? By fostering and nurturing the ARTS Community, we directly foster our community at large. We are a composite of all our experiences. Take away the good and positive experiences that the Arts offer we are nothing but a shell of humanity. We are left with the gruesome distinction of one of the highest MURDER rates in the United States of America.

Let us speak out and protect the ARTS community funding because we are PATRONS of the ARTS.